BENVENUTO NEL BLOG DEGLI APPRENDISTI FALEGNAMI

Sono un appassionato di Falegnameria e Fai-da-te e ho deciso di entrare in un laboratorio e scrivere questo Diario per permettere anche a te di sapere tutto sul lavoro del Falegname

I am a woodworking and DIY enthusiast and I decided to enter a laboratory and write this diary to allow you to know everything about the job of  the Woodworker

POPULAR POSTS

  • Code di Rondine
    Code di Rondine - tipologie

LATEST POSTS

Basi di FalegnameriaItaliano

PROTEGGERE IL LEGNO - PARTE 1

Postato Il di Wood Blogger

Che tu sia un Falegname o un appassionato di fai-da-te vorrai sicuramente proteggere i tuoi manufatti in legno. In questo articolo ti elenco i prodotti giusti per proteggere il legno da umidità, sole e insetti fitofagi come tarli o altri…

Bentornato sul mio blog di Aspirante Falegname.
 
Ormai, se hai già letto tutti i miei articoli precedenti, dovresti essere in grado di saper fare le operazioni basilari della lavorazione del legno, dal riconoscimento delle Specie più comuni al Taglio, dagli Incastri più comuni all’Incollaggio.
 
Quindi, arrivato a questo punto, sei già in grado,se ti sei esercitato abbastanza come ti consigliavo negli articoli precedenti, di realizzare un piccolo semplice manufatto.
 
Probabilmente non ne sarai così orgoglioso da farlo vedere a tutti.
 
O forse sì.
 
Può darsi che tu abbia già un’ottima manualità, ma nella maggior parte dei casi i primi lavori non sono bellissimi.
 
Nonostante ciò, magari vorrai tenertelo per ricordo.
 
In fondo è il simbolo dell’inizio di un percorso e poi potrebbe essere utile confrontarlo con i successivi per vedere meglio i tuoi progressi.
 
Comunque sia, probabilmente vorrai proteggerlo dagli agenti esterni che potrebbero rovinarlo col passare del tempo.

Continua a leggere →

Basi di FalegnameriaItaliano

FALEGNAMERIA: INCOLLARE IL LEGNO

Postato Il di Wood Blogger

Le colle per legno più utilizzate in falegnameria e fai-da-te per incollare il legno in modo robusto e duraturo. Scopri i segreti del falegname con la mia guida!

 

Eccomi ancora sulle pagine di questo Diario di un Aspirante Falegname.

Negli articoli pubblicati finora ho cercato di trasmetterti, non solo le informazioni e le nozioni che reputo più importanti per cominciare, ma soprattutto la passione e la voglia di imparare che sto riversando all'interno di queste pagine.

Addentrarmi in un percorso che presenta diverse insidie è stato un passo molto ponderato.

Non ho aperto il blog da un momento all'altro!

Ho riflettuto molto su cosa mi aspettasse.

colle per legno

Sapevo che il viaggio sarebbe stato difficile e faticoso, ma l'amore per il Legno e la sete di sapere hanno prevalso su tutte le paure e le indecisioni.

Vedo che in molti stanno apprezzando il mio sforzo e la mia idea e mi supportano quotidianamente anche solo con qualche like su Facebook.

Per me è molto importante, mi dà la forza per andare avanti e ve ne sono davvero grato.

Sono certo che una parte di coloro che scoprono il mio progetto storcano il naso quando leggono i miei post.

Sicuramente penseranno: "Ma cosa avrò mai da imparare da uno che ha appena iniziato ad apprendere?", "Cosa può insegnare uno che ha esperienza pari a zero nella lavorazione manuale?".

Domande lecite!

Continua a leggere →

ApprofondimentiBasi di FalegnameriaEnglish

TENON AND MORTISE: 10 VARIANTS

Postato Il di Wood Blogger

LEGGI QUESTO POST IN ITALIANO

Welcome back in the blog of those who love Woodworking!
Today I will enter into the details of one of the joints used by Woodworker  to join components of a wooden object: Tenon and Mortise .
I had already mentioned something about it in the Guide to Joints .

However, summarizing, I'm talking about a union formed by a male (tenon) that is inserted into a female (mortise) .

interlocking wood
As you can imagine is a type of interlocking very common and this is due mainly to three key features :
  • Average difficulty of realization
  • Effectiveness
  • Versatility

 

The difficulty of realization is certainly  relative.
It's relative to the craftsman who have to realize the joint: obviously, more experienced is him and easier will be for him to crop the precise form on the two pieces to be joined.
It seems obvious, but it's not!
Often, watching an expert woodworker at work, everything seems so easy and straightforward.
Then, when we are left to work at first hand, maybe without an expert at our side to help us, everything becomes very complicated.
The only way to figure out what can be difficult for you is: PRACTICE!
Just practice a lot, possibly on scrap pieces, can help you achieve this manual to understand the real difficulty of a job.
I talk about Medium Difficulty taking as reference a person who already has a certain dexterity.
tenon and mortise
Regarding Effectiveness I think we agree that the joint works if it's properly done.
Although this may seem obvious, but when you go to the practice all becomes less obvious and natural.

But it's the versatility of this type of joint feature of which I'm going to talk primarily in this post. In fact I am going to show you  10 different variations of Mortise and Tenon  you can meet in your works. Depending on the type of object you're creating what you should consider is what's right for you.
Whether you work with hand saw and chisels , or with power tools of various kinds, you should evaluate from time to time every chance to choose the best type.

 THE VARIANTS


Here are 10 types of Tenon-Mortise joint:
  1. Blind Mortise
  2. Through
  3. Through wedged
  4. Barefaced tenon
  5. Blind wedged
  6. Foxtail wedged
  7. Bridle
  8. Haunched
  9. Pinned
  10. Blind double

BLIND MORTISE

tenon and mortise


The classic Tenon and Mortise .
This comes to mind at most enthusiasts, when I talk about a Tenon-Mortise joint.
In fact it's essential to achieve solid and resistant structures.
Remember that the mortise should be slightly deeper than the length of the tenon in order to have space for the glue.

THROUGH

 
tenon and mortise
 
As you can see from the picture it's very similar to the above.
The only difference lies in the fact that the mortise is a real through-hole and the tenon arrives flush with the rear face of the workpiece.
Usually the tenon is made slightly longer than necessary and the excess part is then cut flush to have a smooth and homogeneous surface on the other side.

THROUGH WEDGED

 
tenon and mortise
 
In this case, the tenon is not cut flush, but is enhanced and highlighted making it protrude a few centimeters.
Furthermore is punctured so that, by inserting a wedge , the joint locks without needing adhesives.
Precisely for this reason the junction is also removable .
Very frequent use of this joining parts of tables, chairs and benches .

BAREFACED TENON

tenon and mortise
 
No no, I do not mean to offend anyone.
Nor poor tenon which will be our job partner for a long time.
In this case it's said barefaced because it has only one shoulder and is therefore decentralized.
It is used mostly for the production of chairs .

BLIND WEDGED

tenon and mortise
 
The Blind Mortise, instead of having the classic rectangular shape, is made wider than the tenon and with an inclined face .
In this way it's inserted inside, near the tenon, a small reinforcing wedge that stabilizes the union giving more resistance .

FOXTAIL WEDGED

tenon and mortise
 
This interlocking Tenon-Mortise is realized mainly in the case of wood that are subject to strong dimensional variations . (remember WOOD IS A  MATERIAL VIVO )
We practice a passer Slotting and a Tenon with double-edged "V" in which are inserted two wedges which can then be adjusted to the need at the moment when the timber will deform.

BRIDLE

tenon and mortise
 
It is the most widely used junction in the construction of frames for paintings.
The mortise is located at the end of the piece and, therefore, has an open face in which the tenon is inserted as in a channel.

HAUNCHED

tenon and mortise
The Tenon presents a sort of "step" which makes it more resistant to mechanical stresses.
Of course, the Mortasa will have the same shaping.

PINNED

tenon and mortise
 
I've already talked about pinning in the Article related to joints .
It's a fairly basic type of junction. In this case, we need to give more strength to our through Tenon-Mortise .
As you can see from the picture, on the Tenon's and on the workpiece on which is located the Mortasa, a hole into which is inserted a is practiced plug (a small wooden cylinder).
This interlocking is considered virtually unbreakable .

BLIND DOUBLE

tenon and mortise
 
One of the most difficult variants to achieve .
You have to shape in a perfect way the two parts of the union to have a very solid and durable joint.

DO YOU KNOW MORE?

 
Do you know other variants of tenon and mortise used in woodworking?
 
Write me and participate to my project!
 
Just type in the comments below or send me an email at ilwoodblogger@gmail.com, attaching a picture or a simple design of the joint.


AT WORK!

 
Well!
Now you just have to arm yourself with patience and proper tools and immediately start to practice.
It's ESSENTIAL to have good results in joinery.
I remind you that to stay up to date on my articles and don't miss the news you can Subscribe to the newsletter (down left) and follow my Facebook page .
Until next time!
 
The Wood Blogger